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Muscadet is a white wine from the Loire Valley, produced around Nantes at the western end of the Loire wine region. It is one of the few French appellations named after its grape variety rather than its terroir: the name comes directly from Melon de Bourgogne, the only permitted grape variety, despite what its Burgundian origins might suggest.
The vineyards stretch south of Nantes across an area crossed by the Sèvre Nantaise and Petite Maine rivers, which give their names to the most highly regarded sub-appellation, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine. The predominantly granite and schist soils give the wines their characteristic minerality and tension, enhanced by the proximity of the Atlantic Ocean, which moderates the climate and helps preserve freshness in the grapes through to harvest.
The vast majority of Muscadet wines sold today carry the term sur lie, meaning that the wine is aged for an extended period in contact with its lees, the spent yeast left behind after fermentation, without being racked before bottling. This technique adds texture and a subtle natural spritz that can be noticeable on the first sip, while giving the wine greater complexity than a conventionally made Muscadet. Some producers keep their wines on the lees for several years before bottling, resulting in fuller textures and surprising ageing potential for a wine often perceived as simple and intended to be enjoyed young.
Long regarded simply as an inexpensive wine to drink with oysters, Muscadet has gained considerably in depth and complexity over recent decades, driven by producers who vinify their best vineyard sites as single-vineyard cuvées. On specific soils such as amphibolite, a local metamorphic rock, Melon de Bourgogne develops a distinctive saline tension alongside citrus and white-flower aromas that can rival far more prestigious white wines. Some cuvées, aged for several years on the lees, can develop for ten years or more, gaining dried-fruit notes and an almost creamy texture that is far removed from the straightforward, crisp character associated with standard Muscadet.
A classic Muscadet is best served well chilled, at around 8-10°C, and is a natural match for oysters, shellfish and seafood, a pairing that has become almost proverbial in French cuisine. More ambitious cuvées with extended lees ageing benefit from being served slightly less chilled to reveal their complexity and work equally well with fish in sauce or lighter poultry dishes.
Most Muscadet wines are best enjoyed within two to three years of the harvest. Terroir-driven cuvées with extended lees ageing are the exception and can develop beautifully for five to ten years, sometimes even longer.
This is a result of lees ageing, which can retain a small amount of carbon dioxide produced during fermentation. The slight spritz generally disappears if the wine is decanted before serving.
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